Common dog training challenges: Pulling on the lead & unwanted behaviours

Pulling on the lead

The most commonly viewed dog training/dog behaviour videos on popular media cover the topic of dogs pulling the guardian along on a walk[1] – very often with the promoting trainer’s promise of a complete fix in 10 to 15 minutes during a single session. It is disturbing watching these videos, because of the aversive techniques invariably applied to the dog – often quite severe – not to mention the vacuous concept that a dog’s behaviour or training can be totally fixed in a single session of 10 to 15 minutes. This is a sham, a con, just simply misleading the general public and frustrating new/naïve dog owners.

If you watch these pundits (so called dog trainers – sadly, with lots of ardent followers looking for the macho quick-fix) just observe the dog’s body language before the training session (exuberant, happy, full of life, “let’s go for a walk” energy) with the end result, invariably sad face, tail between legs, dipped at the shoulders, roached back, uncertain placement of feet, eyes wide, ears back, fearful cautious position beside/behind the “trainer”, waiting for the next slip lead/prong collar punishment without warning as the trainer suddenly changes direction or knees the dog in the face to execute a turn. Are these “dog trainers” aiming to ruin the spirit of the dog through brutality and aversive tools, then point to how clever they are – because aversives work so speedily? They will even demonstrate a loose lead held over one finger at the end of the session. Not surprising! The confused and terrified dog is scared to make a move! Is that what you want from your companion?

What is the alternative approach that a positive reinforcement trainer might suggest for a leash pulling dog (i.e., all dogs)? Firstly, recognise that there are three types of dog walk –

1. The “sniff and toilet walk”.

2. The “loose leash walk” (getting from A to B or a relaxed stroll in the park).

3. The formal heel walk, where the dog stays glued to the trainer’s left leg and is sensitive to all of the trainer’s direction and momentum changes – just like in an obedience competition. The Schuzhund/ IGP/Mondio/etc. competitions show the extreme end of this, usually with German Shepherds, Malinois or Dobermans, with the dog prancing in lock step and eyes on the trainer – really impressive, fantastic to watch the impeccable precision, although not especially relevant to pet dog/companionship dog training.

Step one is figure out the aim of the walk – but, always allow for the sniff and toilet to happen up front – don’t deny the dog this fundamental and essential need and then expect it to settle into polite behaviour. Most dogs will settle down to a calmer walk with their guardian after 15 minutes of sniffing and toileting, making the loose leash walk exercise a whole lot easier. 

Step two is to start the walk in an area with minimal distractions – as the dog surges ahead give the cue “Steady” or “Slow” (the auditory cue) and stand still (the body language cue) with lead held at the waist, not extended out so that you are tempted to jerk the dog back. All the pressure the dog experiences is applied by itself, not the trainer. When the dog glances back (“Hey – what’s happening – why aren’t we walking?) lure with a treat at the (left) knee (or within the desired spatial bubble) then, as the dog responds and returns to the close position, bridge/click and offer a “good dog/treat”, then “OK – let’s walk”, or similar, in a happy voice as you proceed again (change of direction – with auditory cue - at this point optional). This not purely positive-only in every little element, because “negative punishment” is applied – delaying the positive sensation of the walk to decrease the unwanted behaviour of pulling, but providing the auditory and body language cues – and rewards - in a positive format. It is important that the positive reinforcement occurs after the desired behaviour is happening, avoiding setting up a learned behaviour chain for the dog of “if I pull on the lead, I get rewarded”.

Rinse and repeat – many times, every walk – not 10 minutes, not one day one walk, not one week - every walk, always – remembering that today’s walk is even more exciting than yesterday’s. If the guardian/trainer wishes to change the direction of the walk – left, right or about turn – there is no need to just execute the turn and jerk or knee the dog, the dog should be given a cue like “this way” or even “left, right”[2] or “about turn” and proceed (dogs quickly learn these cues, just like they learn the “sit” cue). Dog guardians have to appreciate that the walk to the beach or in the park with their carer is just the most exciting thing that happens to them on any given day – they shouldn’t be punished for their love of life and fun and just being out with their guardian. Isn’t that why people have a dog?

Behaviour changes: “Leave it”, “Don't growl at that child”, “Stop the road dash”

The training of these present different challenges, but there is a common theme, which is (in short form) firstly, a management strategy and, secondly, a training strategy. 

1. The management strategy is to avoid the trigger that causes the disruption to desired behaviour. So, for example, avoid a rubbish littered sidewalk or park, or be very vigilant on a walk so that the temptation is avoided before the dog locks on to it and attention is diverted so as to manage the forward path. For the growling at children example, totally avoid exposure to children while working the retraining. Similarly, for the road dash inclined dog, avoid walking beside roads and obviously don’t have a dog off-lead in an unsuitable area close to a road. Understand that every time a dog successfully executes an undesirable behaviour it gets reinforced by the success – the rubbish tasted great, the scary child screamed and ran away, or the car zoomed past in fright – mission accomplished!

2. The training strategy (sometimes referred to as “defensive training”) in each case will involve some variation of desensitization and counterconditioning[3] , potentially engaging concepts from BAT – Behaviour Adjustment Training[4] , or CAT – Constructional Aggression Treatment[5] - realising that although such techniques can be readily researched and understood, both need time and effort, probably help from an experienced trainer and require thoughtful application. There are no quick fixes. The message here is that if a trainer claims to fix an issue of this nature in one session or a few minutes, then it is certain this will involve aversives at the high end of the spectrum and will not retrain the mind and long-term reactions of the dog’s innate or conditioned stress/fear at sighting the trigger (the hairy green monster) – they are suppressing the behaviour - putting a Band-Aid on an axe wound. Further, the “aversive suppression actions” approach of the handler are highly likely to camouflage the early warning signs of fear/reactivity/aggression and be detrimental to the relationship, bond and trust between guardian and dog.

Conclusion

In any dog training, start from the premise that dogs are sentient beings with feelings and emotions. This should guide the trainer in every action they take, be it obedience/manners style training or re-programming undesirable (learned) behaviours. Beyond the basic needs – food, shelter, exercise and stimulation – these principles of understanding dogs and reflecting on why a guardian has a dog in the first place, will guide the hand in all management and training strategies.

References

[1] Not really surprising, as most dogs naturally walk faster on four legs than their guardian does on two legs.

[2] Because my Landseer Newfoundland is a marine/water dog, she was taught to respond instantly at a path intersection, in the bush, traversing rocky outcrops, or swimming in the ocean, to the verbal cues of “port” and “starboard”. She is infallible in this – nails it every time.

[3] Todd, Z (2018) What is Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning in Dog Training?; Companion Animal Psychology; URL https://www.companionanimalpsychology.com/2018/07/what-is-desensitization-and-counter.html.

[4] Stewart, G (2016) Behaviour Adjustment Training; Dogwise Publ. USA; 290pp.

[5] Snider, K (2017) Turning Fierce Dogs Friendly; Fox Chapel Publishing; 220pp. This technique does employ negative reinforcement, but is ultimately aimed at changing the dog’s view of and reaction to a previously fear inducing trigger.